TAMASHIMA.tokyo - Tourist information site for the Tama area and islands of Tokyo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
Language:

Chichi-jima & Haha-jima

Chichi-jima has a population of 2,000 and is found 1,000 km south of Tokyo in the Pacific Ocean. Haha-jima is a further 50 km south and has a population of 450. Most animals and plants on these islands have undergone unique evolutionary processes, creating a distinctive environment for endemic species. Ogasawara Islands were registered in 2011 as a World Natural Heritage Site. Whale watching is popular.
Sakehiro

Sakehiro

Japanese travel and cultural information specialist blogger. 22 years of experience in learning Japanese. Holder of Japanese interpreter, teacher, and tour guide licenses. Active as a specialized blogger in Japanese travel.

Summer

The first day

Headed to the Ogasawara

Headed to the Ogasawara

The only way to get to the Ogasawara Islands currently is by taking a boat from Tokyo's Takeshiba Pier, with a travel time of 24 hours (yes, you read that right)!This is actually a shortened travel time because the new generation of ships began service in July of this year. Previously, the journey took 25.5 hours!
To purchase tickets or make reservations, please visit the official website of Ogasawara Kaiun: https://www.ogasawarakaiun.co.jp/
Since the boat only departs once every six days, it's essential to check the departure schedule on the official website. Making a mistake could lead to significant inconvenience.
Getting ready to board! It's quite a large vessel!

Getting ready to board! It's quite a large vessel!

The Ogasawara Maru isn't a luxury cruise ship; in a sense, it's more of a passenger ferry. It's somewhat comparable to the ships we take to Green Island or Penghu, just a bit larger. As a result, there aren't any entertainment facilities on board, but the living amenities are quite adequate. There's a large dining hall, a shop called "Dolphin," an observation lounge called "Oshima," a small lounge called "Chichijima," a tourist information area, and 24-hour shower facilities, among other places. The only entertainment equipment worth mentioning would probably be the single gashapon machine and the onboard commemorative stamps in the vending machine area.
Second-class sleeper berth

Second-class sleeper berth

The space is reminiscent of a capsule hotel, with sockets above the lights, which is crucial for travelers!Pillows and blankets come with disposable covers for easy cleaning.
Tourist Information Service Station

Tourist Information Service Station

The Tourist Information Service Station is usually unmanned, but there are plenty of materials available for browsing and borrowing. On departure days, there will be sightseeing explanations provided, with local residents responsible for guiding and explaining to everyone.
The shop

The shop

The shop sells a variety of items such as souvenirs, instant noodles, freshly ground coffee, beverages, ice cream, and more.
The onboard service center

The onboard service center

Actually, what surprised me a bit is that there are many young people, especially female tourists, on board! There are also many solo female travelers!Is everyone trying to find something through travel?
Explanation session

Explanation session

In the large dining hall, there is a briefing session on Ogasawara Islands held on departure days. After attending the session, you'll have a basic understanding of the Ogasawara Islands.
Deck

Deck

When I have nothing to do, I like to go up to the top deck. Although the sun can be a bit hot, this is where the view is best, and it's the most likely place to pick up Wi-Fi signals from nearby cities.
The sunset seen from the ship.

The sunset seen from the ship.

The sunset viewed from the ship is truly beautiful!
Dining in the restaurant.

Dining in the restaurant.

The restaurant offers noodles and rice dishes, but the prices are somewhat high, and the taste may not be the best.
So many people bring bento boxes from outside or simply opt for instant noodles to save money.
Goodnight

Goodnight

Goodnight!

Read more on Day 1

The second day

Arrival at Chichijima Island

Arrival at Chichijima Island

The next day at 11 o'clock, we arrived at Chichijima Island.
Overview of Chichijima Island

Overview of Chichijima Island

With over 2,100 residents, it's the most populous island in the Ogasawara Archipelago, and it looks quite lively.Walking down the street, I suddenly felt like I was in a small town in Hawaii. There's hardly any feeling of Japan here. A friend asked me if it's similar to Okinawa, but I can tell you, it's nothing like it at all.
Chichijima Island supermarket

Chichijima Island supermarket

There are two supermarkets on Chichijima Island, catering to the daily needs of over 2,000 residents and tourists.
Heart Rock Village and Café

Heart Rock Village and Café

A beautiful banyan tree café, and the second floor is also a guesthouse.
Sea turtle meat set meal

Sea turtle meat set meal

At lunch, I had a sea turtle meat set meal. It's said that you can only eat sea turtle meat here in all of Japan. It turns out that catching sea turtles is a tradition here. There are a total of 135 sea turtles legally available for catch each year. So, for the locals, it's not something they can eat every day; it's more of a luxury item.
Sightseeing on Chichijima Island

Sightseeing on Chichijima Island

While it's possible to rent a car and explore on your own, most people choose to take island tours, especially those visiting the island for the first time. If you already know where the scenic spots are, perhaps you can skip the tour. The Ogasawara Islands official website has a variety of tours to choose from, including mountain climbing, island tours, boat trips, and diving activities. "How to spend four days and three nights on the island? It's a good idea for everyone to plan ahead before departure. "In fact, doing nothing, just strolling around the village or relaxing by the seaside, is also a way to spend the day.
WEATHER STATION

WEATHER STATION

This place is called the Weather Station, and it's the best spot on Chichijima Island to admire the sunset. The ocean view from here is also incredibly beautiful.
Asahidaira Observation Deck

Asahidaira Observation Deck

This is the Asahidaira Observation Deck, where you can also enjoy beautiful scenery.
Green lizard

Green lizard

These lizards are said to have been brought in as pets during the period of American military administration, making them what is known as an introduced species. They have since become wild, with millions now living on Chichijima Island. Because they prey on the native Ogasawara cicadas, they pose a significant challenge for conservation efforts here. Moreover, their strong vitality and high speed make them difficult to capture. Nowadays, efforts are focused on preventing these lizards from invading other islands like Hahajima. It is said that on the nearest island to Chichijima, called Anijima, there are even three-layer fences being built as a physical barrier to prevent lizard invasion. (Makes me think of scenes from Resident Evil...)
Traces of World War II

Traces of World War II

"During World War II, the Ogasawara Islands served as a supply base for the Japanese military front line. This facility, at the time, served as a communication room. To prevent bombings, the cement walls were very thick, but there are still traces of being hit, indicating the intensity of the attacks they faced at that time."
Kopepe Beach

Kopepe Beach

Kopepe Beach, renowned as the most beautiful beach on Chichijima Island, I personally feel that the photos I took all look as beautiful as oil paintings! I really want to stay a bit longer, but when the time's up, you have to leave. That's the downside of joining a tour!
PAT INN

PAT INN

I stayed at the trendiest hotel on the island, 'PAT INN,' which has only been open for a little over a year and is still very new. The rooms are incredibly beautiful!
Dinner at PAT INN

Dinner at PAT INN

The dinner at PAT INN is styled with a Western influence, utilizing plenty of local island vegetables. It's really delicious!

Read more on Day 2

The third day

Sea excursions.

Sea excursions.

On the second day, I participated in a full-day sea excursion, which included dolphin watching, swimming with dolphins, snorkeling, and more.
Spotted a pod of dolphins!

Spotted a pod of dolphins!

When encountering the pod of dolphins for the second time, I finally managed to capture dolphins leaping out of the water! At the very end of the footage, aren't they adorable? You can probably sense how unstable the sea surface is from how much my hands are shaking, and how much the boat is swaying (I'm still swaying...). But being able to see the dolphins is just incredible.
Swimming with a school of fish.

Swimming with a school of fish.

At a spot where feeding fish is allowed, the captain provided the leftover boxed lunches for everyone to feed the fish! There's quite a gathering of fish!
The pod of dolphins passed right underneath our boat!

The pod of dolphins passed right underneath our boat!

On our second attempt to get close to the pod of dolphins, they actually swam right underneath our boat this time! It was super cool!
HEART ROCK

HEART ROCK

It's said that the red rocks are locally known as 'HEART ROCK,' although they don't exactly resemble a heart. Nevertheless, they look very beautiful especially when the sunlight hits them, highlighting their special red color!
Buying souvenirs.

Buying souvenirs.

After returning to the village, I bought some souvenirs such as turtle curry, passion fruit curry, and some fruit-flavored gummy candies. Sea salt is also a great product.
The handsome men at PAT INN

The handsome men at PAT INN

I had a great chat with the handsome boss at PAT INN. They are locals who transformed the land left by their ancestors into such a beautiful hotel!

Read more on Day 3

The fourth day

Traveling to Hahajima

Traveling to Hahajima

Boarding the ferry to Hahajima! The journey to Hahajima takes about two hours by ferry, covering a distance of approximately 60 kilometers.
Overview of Hahajima

Overview of Hahajima

"Compared to Chichijima, which has a population of about 2,000, Hahajima, with only around 500 residents, appears even more rustic and primitive. The entire island only has three shops, one restaurant, and one izakaya (Japanese-style pub). Except for the izakaya, all businesses close by 6 p.m., so there's virtually no nightlife to speak of. Most of the people on the island are involved in community groups, such as hula dancing, tennis, badminton, or taiko drumming. In the evenings, they're busy with practice sessions, and many individuals participate in more than one group. From this, you can see just how simple and pure their lives are! After earning money, they don't really have places to spend it, so people aren't that motivated to expand their businesses. It truly feels like they're just living their lives.
Sekimon Tour

Sekimon Tour

Arriving at Hahajima is essentially experiencing tourism without any artificial development, so hiking through various mountains and forests is primarily the main activity. Ogasawara was designated a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site , there are many areas where entry is not permitted without a local guide. This measure is taken to protect the local ecology and ensure the safety of visitors. Following experienced guides familiar with the terrain helps prevent getting lost and encountering danger. I joined the Sekimon Plant Observation Tour, which takes 7 hours, and it's essential to bring your own hiking shoes. Regular sports shoes might be too slippery, making the climb a bit dangerous!
In order to avoid bringing in external items

In order to avoid bringing in external items

In order to avoid bringing in foreign substances, it's necessary to thoroughly clean the soles of your shoes before entering Sekimon, to prevent the introduction of invasive species. Spraying vinegar on the shoe soles is also an effective method.
Ogasawara land snail

Ogasawara land snail

This is called 'Ogasawara land snail,' which is a native species of snail (terrestrial mollusk) found in the Ogasawara Islands.
Ogasawara lizard

Ogasawara lizard

The endemic species 'Ogasawara lizard,' a nimble little reptile, was captured in a photo after much effort.
Okuzure Bay Cliff

Okuzure Bay Cliff

The photo taken at the edge of the cliffs of Okuzure Bay Cliff completely blurs the boundary between the sea and the sky. The scenery here is truly breathtaking!
Japanese Wagtail

Japanese Wagtail

Sometimes in the mountains, you might see this kind of basin, what are they used for?
The native species "Japanese Wagtail" is very similar to the Green-backed flycatcher, and they belong to the same bird family. The difference is in the black coloring around the eyes of the native species here, as opposed to the white of the Narcissus flycatcher. On Hahajima, it doesn't rain often, so there are often no puddles on the mountains where birds can drink water. Therefore, hikers interact with the birds in this way. What's also adorable is that when the birds hear the sound of pouring water, they will actively fly over and make cute chirping sounds, giving a feeling similar to having a pet. After pouring the water, remember to step back slightly so the birds will fly down to play in the water. After all, just like when you take a bath, you wouldn't want someone else nearby. They will fly down one by one, almost like they're queuing up!
Shima Ōoninawatari

Shima Ōoninawatari

The native species "Shima Ōoninawatari" is also a special plant that grows in limestone terrain.
The blue color is etched in my heart.

The blue color is etched in my heart.

This special shade of blue, I believe, will forever be etched in my heart!
Minshuku Nanpū, South Wind Guesthouse

Minshuku Nanpū, South Wind Guesthouse

Living in Minshuku Nanpū on Hahajima. It's a cozy wooden-style guesthouse.

Read more on Day 4

The fifth day

Guesthouse breakfast

Guesthouse breakfast

Guesthouse breakfast, opening up a whole new wonderful day!
Wandering around

Wandering around

On the last day with no itinerary, we'll wander around the village, getting ready to take the boat back to Chichijima Island at noon, and then from Chichijima back to Tokyo Bay.
Near the harbor, there is a place where you can see sea turtles.
I heard there are sharks.

I heard there are sharks.

There's also a beautiful beach here, but I've heard there have been sharks spotted nearby recently, so I wouldn't recommend going into the water.
Leaving Hahajima

Leaving Hahajima

When leaving Hahajima, the local residents all came to bid us farewell. When leaving, everyone really seemed a bit reluctant to part ways.
The island sushi of Chichijima

The island sushi of Chichijima

After returning to Chichijima, the first thing we must do is to enjoy some island sushi. The specialty here is tuna soaked in soy sauce and mirin, and it's indeed quite delicious.
The grand farewell of Chichijima.

The grand farewell of Chichijima.

When leaving Chichijima to return to Tokyo, we received an even grander farewell. Not only were we bid farewell on the island, but they even sailed out to see us off. It was truly heartfelt. About a dozen small boats escorted us all the way to the bay, and the islanders on board even jumped into the sea as a gesture of gratitude. I'm truly thankful for their warmth, leaving me with unforgettable memories!
The sunset before the typhoon.

The sunset before the typhoon.

As a typhoon was forming in the distance, we enjoyed the beautiful fiery clouds from the boat. Many Japanese people who hadn't seen the sunset before a typhoon came to the deck to take photos.
A trip to the Ogasawara Islands is truly special.

A trip to the Ogasawara Islands is truly special.

Perhaps because there are many solo travelers in the Ogasawara Islands, it felt like everyone was a bit solitary during the visit and not too keen on socializing. However, on the return journey, it was evident to see groups gathering in every corner of the ship, highlighting the charm of the Ogasawara Islands. A trip to the Ogasawara Islands is truly unique, completely different from the island-hopping trips I've taken in the past. Perhaps, as the islanders say, the difficulty in reaching the Ogasawara Islands makes people cherish their time and connections made there more. If it were as easy as taking a quick flight, maybe it wouldn't feel as special. That's really quite insightful! Hope all of you, my friends, have the opportunity to leave behind the mundane and take a trip to the Ogasawara Islands to cleanse your soul!

Read more on day 5

The original article can be found here